Advise please!! Which specifications do I need to get camera lenses that can capture details of the iris?
Friday, May 18th, 2012I want to buy a Nikon Digital Camera, and then fix a special type of lenses that can capture details of the iris. Which specifications do I need to mention? Is there anyone who specialized in Nikon cameras?
Any 100 year old camera can do that if the lens can focus closely enough.
Old triple extension bellows cameras were OK, with a shorter than normal focus lens attached to get very close focusing at large image scales.
This is a Thornton-Pickard, the Rolls Royce of triple extension cameras
http://randcollins.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/thornton-pickard-royal-ruby-triple-extension-camera-with-roller-blind-shutter.jpg
Remember physics at school?…the basic lens equation.
1/f = 1/v + 1/u
Change the object distance and you change the image distance
Magnification = image distance/object distance
M = v/u
At 1:1 image scale, the image to object distance is 4F.
That’s the film plane to the eyeball you want a picture of for example.
That 4F is 4x the focal length of the lens so to get 200mm working distance use a 50mm lens and for 400mm working distance use a 100mm lens for a same-size image.
http://drt3d.blogspot.com/2008/02/basic-lens-equation.html
Tubes or a bellows unit let you change the image distance so can focus closer…
It’s been very common in hosptal practice for well over 70 years to photograph eye defects, lesions and wounds etc..
I used my lovely old Exactas for that kind of stuff, and for close-ups of skin lesions etc and microscope work.
They were made long before auto features appeared on cameras and had no light meters. A separate light meter was used.
http://www.thecamerasite.net/01_SLR_Cameras/Pages/exacta.htm
That formula works for far away things too, even how big the Sun is on a photograph or how big a barn is on the film from two miles away using a particular lens and there is a geometrical way to do it too, and a quick way of converting angular sizes to image sizes.
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20110622083741AA3GZAm
Here is a photograph of an eye, which is easily done with any 35mm film camera or a digital camera having close-up facilities as mentioned.
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/health/8782723/Trial-begins-into-stem-cell-treatment-for-sight-loss.html
More photos
http://thechive.com/2008/12/01/a-closer-look-at-the-iris-21-photos/
Close-up lenses
You can use them on any camera but SLRs are best because then you have a focusing screen on the camera..
http://www.alanwood.net/photography/close-up-lenses.html
Extension tubes. You can get them for all interchangable lens cameras.
My Exacta cameras have extension tubes more than fifty years old.
http://www.toledo-bend.us/index.asp?ExtTube
Bellows
http://www.alanwood.net/photography/bellows.html
For lighting you need a high speed flash, thyrister controlled, for speed and conveience or you’ll have long exposure times for large scale images.
You must set a very small aperture to get enough depth of field at large image scales so the shutter speed must be longer to compensate or the flash exposure must be higher.
1/20 000 of a second is fast enough for the flash to catch the iris before the iris closes in response to the flash.
Set manual flash on the camera and adjust the flash output if it has one.
At that speed reciprocity failure comes in so you can’t trust built in flash meters…
.No more link space left here (10 max allowed ).
Look up reciprocity failure for film and digital.
You can use tissues to cover the flash and reduce the output which will also soften the light for good results, and using the flash on a cable instead of on the camera lets you change the flash to subject distance for more control..
Some flashguns have full power, 1/2. 1/4/ 1/8 etc
http://www.amazon.com/Vivitar-285HV-Auto-Professional-Flash/dp/B00004TVSP/ref=dp_cp_ob_p_title_0